From November 12th to 19th, 2005, the 16th annual summit of the Asia Pacific Economic Co-operation was held in Busan, South Korea under the theme "Towards One Community: Meet The Challenge, Make the Change". Having a busy work schedule and living on the opposite side of town, I was unable to take in any of the accompanying festivities (most regrettably the spectacular fireworks display at Gwanganli Beach). Determined, at least for one day, to experience this major political and economic forum, if only from the periphery, I threw my camera in a bag, hailed a taxi, and made my way across town.

I was forewarned that buses and the subway would not be stopping at or near either of the two major host venues, Busan Exhibition and Convention Center (BEXCO) and Haeundae Beach. With this in mind I asked to be dropped off in Suyeong. Oncheon River separates Suyeong and Dongnae from the more affluent Centum City and Haeundae neighborhoods in the northeast of Busan. Its banks are currently the site of the some of the most ambitious and enormous apartment development taking place in the city. Encouragingly, a large area of land has also been developed as a boardwalk and park, an aspect of urban planning that, until recently, has been sorely lacking in Busan.

As I approached the river I was confronted by a massive barricade of Hyundai shipping containers. Stacked two high to form a wall, the containers were in place not to block traffic, but rather to impede and regulate its flow. I walked along the edge and approached the bridge to find the length of it occupied by police and police buses. Despite my innocent intentions to walk and observe, I had what I consider to be a common reaction when witnessing a large contingent of law enforcement: irrational guilt. Slightly unnerved, I altered my route and walked further up river to the next bridge. (In retrospect, I realized that the police, much like the large container barricades, were in place to deter anyone with nefarious intentions. Presenting no threat I would have had no problem passing.) The weather was excellent and a slight detour was welcomed.

Walking along the river to the next bridge, I saw more parked police buses and forces. A large portion of South Korea's police force is made up of young men, usually in their early twenties, serving the countries mandatory 2 year and 2 month military service. For many, it is considered a favorable alternative to freezing one's ass off patrolling the Demilitarized Zone between North and South Korea. Although their black uniforms and array of riot busting accessories convey an air of menace, most were out of their full gear, smoking, eating, and behaving jovially as young men in their 20's are inclined to do in eachother's company. Any threat, whether from terrorism or protesters, seemed to be well under control.

I arrived at the bridge and found the scene was the same. I waited for a few cars and a middle aged couple on foot to begin crossing the bridge to confirm I wouldn't be turned back. My presence elicited not much more than a few turned heads, smiles, and even the odd "Hello."

Having crossed the river, I turned and walked along a newly installed park and boardwalk. The police presence of the bridge and the opposite bank were now all but invisible despite my close proximity to BEXCO. Along the water's edge, men cast fishing lines, children played, joggers jogged, and a middle aged man wheeled past on a unicycle with surprising mastery.

I exited the end of the park nearest BEXCO and crossed the street. The road leading to the convention center was blocked by a manned barricade. I guessed it might only have been for vehicles and tried to walk around. With an assertive but friendly "No" and an X formed by his forearms (a common Korean gesture used to express 'No' to foreigners), a young cop turned me back. I walked along the edge of the restricted area able to see the impressive BEXCO structure in the distance but, unlike on so many previous visits, I was unable to approach it.

At the next road block I didn't attempt to pass but did take notice of the attention paid to making this security measure pleasant to look at. Between yellow and black metal barriers were three tiered flower boxes with 'Welcome to APEC' printed along the edges. The flowers were fake. Logical I suppose since a police force required to attend to the welfare of live flowers doesn't do much to instill fear in would be 'trouble makers' ("Don't make me put down this watering can!").

I continued along the edge of the restricted area. In some places police buses and officers outnumbered civilians. In other places a feeling of normalcy pervaded. Walking through an apartment courtyard where birds sang and children played, I turned a corner and found hundreds of police sitting, legs crossed on the pavement. Not guarding anything, they were being held in reserve to be called upon if needed.

Altering my route numerous times to avoid police barriers and road blocks, I finally arrived at the gateway to Dongbaek Island, the home of Nurimaru APEC House where the leaders of APEC's 21 member countries were meeting in seclusion to discuss, among a range of other issues, 'Advancing Freer Trade' and 'A Safe and Transparent Asia-Pacific Region'. The stated goals of the summit are to promote freer trade through support for the WTO and to seek measures for dealing with threats to human security such as terrorism, disease, and natural disasters. With attacks in Bali, the looming threat of bird flu, and a devastating tsunami within the last year, these are pressing concerns for the region and its leaders.

From a security standpoint, Dongbaek (technically a peninsula and not an island) is a perfect location for hosting world leaders. Nurimaru APEC House on the peninsula's tip is practically invisible from the rest of the mainland and the surrounding waters are easily guarded and patrolled by a fleet of police boats and battle cruisers. The only road leading onto the island was tightly controlled by police on foot, motorcycle, and in armored personel vehicles. I stood there taking in the scene as a police chopper circled over head. Anticipation was in the air. I wasn't sure why but I needed to sit down and rest so I decided to do so there. I was approached by an outgoing Korean university professor. He informed me that people were waiting to see the motorcades depart. Particularly, he wanted to catch a glimpse of U.S. President George W. Bush, 'Bushee' as he is known by many in Korea. After a short time, the police escorts appeared surrounding a fleet of BMW X5 sport utilities and 7 series sedans. China and Mexico rolled out before the tell-tale Cadillacs and flying pennants of the American motorcade came into view. Accelerating quickly, tinted windows rolled up, and surrounded by trucks full of secret service agents, the president's car passed within feet of where I stood with the professor on the side of the road. Despite a general negativity towards the U.S. on the part Koreans, most of the spectators seemed excited rather than angry. "It's Bushee!" exclaimed the professor gleefully.

I waited for a while and saw the Canadian contagion leave. None of the leaders were visible however through the darkly tinted glass. A large bus emerged shortly after and unloaded a large group of journalists toting their cameras and massive zoom lenses. There wasn't much to see after that so I took a relaxing stroll along Haeundae beach. Beyond the police line at the beaches southern end (closest to Dongbaek Island) children, couples, and families enjoyed the afternoon sun and refreshing ocean air. Seagulls swarmed amazingly close hoping for some child to drop his valuable cargo of potato chips.

Answering the wishes of many, APEC went off successfully with any major disturbances. I was surprised to witness no protests on the day I visited and to hear of only minor demonstrations on the other days. With the opening of Korea's rice market, farmers were the most active protestors but due to an overwhelming security force things never got out of hand. Perhaps APEC was just a warm up for next months WTO meetings in Hong Kong where Korean farmers are expected to make up a major contingent. Public protest and calling on leaders to account for their actions is an important part of the ongoing and inevitable experiment of globalization. Despite this, sometimes things grind to a complete halt and nothing can be accomplished. APEC 2005 in Busan did not fall victim to this and marks, along with the 2002 World Cup and the annual Pusan International Film Festival, another occasion on which the leaders and citizens of Busan have hosted the world in their beautiful city.

The presidential motorcade leaving APEC 2005:



Some more images:

A police boat and its occupants patrol the waters off Haeundae Beach during APEC 2005.

A pedestrian passes a group of police at APEC 2005.

A police line at Haeundae Beach keeps the southern end of the beach off limits to visitors.

A police motorcycle escort leaving the entrance of Dongbaek Island during APEC 2005.

Young police officers line up along the sidewalk to enforce security during APEC 2005.