Somehow, I successfully woke up before the crack of dawn and made it to my bus for Siem Reap. A van picked me, and four American guys, up from the guesthouse. Striking up conversation, I asked if they would be joining me on the bus. They told me that they would not. They had decided to take the boat up the Tonle Sap river instead of chancing a hellish ride on one of Cambodia's loosely named 'highways'. We shared travel stories briefly before being dropped off at our respective forms of transportation. At $22, the boat trip was more than five times the cost of my $4 bus ticket. Anticipating a rocky ride, I quipped, "I'll let you know if it's worth it".

I boarded the bus filled with mostly Khmer passengers. Despite an irritating local soap opera that was playing on the bus's forward mounted video monitor, I quickly fell asleep. I woke up a couple of hours later aware that the bus had stopped. Most of the passengers had gone to use the toilet facilities and old women lined up at the windows selling fried spiders and scorpions. I didn't have the urge to relieve myself and I wasn't all that hungry (although hunger was not my main reason for declining what was on the menu). I soon fell back asleep. Not much longer we were stopped again. I was still content in my reclining seat and drifted back into unconsciousness. To my surprise I was poked back into reality by an elderly Khmer woman. She was the last passenger getting off the bus and was letting me know we had arrived. I couldn't believe it. It felt as if we had just left. I got a ride to a guesthouse and spent the afternoon relaxing.

About three hours later, the American guys arrived. "Did you just get here?" they asked. "No, I've been here for hours". What followed was the sound of four pissed off yanks saying the phrases "Shit!", "Fuck!", "Son of a bitch!", and "Damn!" in perfect unison. A chorus of profanity. It sounded hilarious. Their significantly more expensive boat ride had not been nearly as smooth, or as fast, as the bus. With their rooms arranged and cold beers in their hands they managed to get over it.

I went out to the Angkor temples to watch the sunset and buy my $40 pass for the next three days. I made the steep ascent of Pnohm Bakheng, a temple mountain with a good view of the sun sinking below the flat, broad horizon. I was not alone. The temples of Angkor have become a huge destination for visitors from all over the world. They are something like a Mecca (although they are actually significantly larger) of South East Asia and it seems most travelers you meet are either heading to, or coming from Angkor. One of the more popular activities is climbing Pnohm Bakheng to watch the sunset. I found a small section of temple step to use as a chair and sat down. A minute later someone tapped me on the shoulder. I turned around to see it was Jochen. We had split up in Saigon about a week earlier and, by lucky chance, met up again here. He was leaving the next day so we went for some Cambodian curry together in town and then split up again.

I had the ambitious idea of getting up at 4:30am to ride a bicycle the 5 kilometers out to the temples for sunrise. My guesthouse woke me up on time and had the bicycle (rickety as it was) ready to go. I, however, was not quite so prepared. A self-confessed night person, I didn't have the mental faculty to operate a fork, let alone a bicycle. I caught a few more hours of sleep and headed to the temples around noon.

I parked my bicycle infront of the most famous and recognizable temple, Angkor Wat. The five spires rose in the distance as I approached them on a large pathway, first across the outer moat, and then through the inner walls. Angkor Wat is the world's largest religious building and I was determined to reach its summit. There are nine options for ascending to the towers in the center of the structure. Eight are frighteningly steep staircases with extremely narrow steps. The ninth route is also a staircase made only slightly less frightening by the addition of a metal railing for holding on to (or in my case, gripping for dear life). I, like most rational people, chose this one. It was a dizzying ascent but to see the view from one of the seven wonders of the modern world was definitely worth it.

I decided to keep walking on to one of the lesser temples, Prasat Kravan, set back behind Ankor Wat. After thinking I could successfully wake up at 4:30 am, this was my second misjudgment of the day. The scale of the map makes everything appear as if it's within easy walking distance. The reality, as I soon found out, is that the main temples are spread out over a massive area. In most cases there are several kilometers separating one from the next. Either out of stubbornness or optimism, I believed I could walk around the circuit and makes it back before sunset. I was about 10 kilometers from my bicycle when I started to run out of daylight. It was time to accept defeat.

There are many forms of transportation seen moving along the roads at Angkor: bicycles, motos, tuk-tuks, cars, trucks, tour buses, elephants. I figured one of these would have room to take me back. I flagged down a moto driver and he dropped me off next to my waiting bicycle for $2. My first day was a bit of a misfire but I was still able to see a few things and suck up some of the aura of Angkor. I was determined to be more efficient my second time out.

I dragged my self out of bed at 4:30am, mounted my bicycle, and set off. I decided to head for the front of Ankor Wat because the sun would rise behind it and create a nice silhouette. Again, others had the same idea and I had to be a little creative to find a spot that wasn't completely over run with camped out tourists and travelers. Shortly, after 5:00 am the stars disappeared and the sky started to lighten. For the next hour, the rising sun cast its rays across the landscape and revealed the majesty of Ankor Wat. This was only the second time I have intentionally watched the sunrise this year. The last was the morning of January 1st from the East Sea off Korea as part of the local New Year's Day celebrations. Granted, I did see the sunrise several other times, but usually after a night out that only ended because it became day. I took countless digital pictures and slides then set off for Angkor Thom.

Today, I had decided, the bicycle would accompany me around. Angkor Thom contains within its huge grounds a number of attractions. I parked the bike and walked around. I saw the Bayon temple where 216 large stone faces smile at you from the walls. Every corner reveals more of the enigmatic visages. If ever you had the feeling you were being watched, this would be the place. Like a number of the temples, the Baphuon, was undergoing some extensive reconstruction and was off limits to visitors. I walked past the edge and then over to the Elephant Terrace. This 350 meter long terrace is set in the middle of Angkor Thom. Into it is carved a massive parade of elephants in various positions. At it's far end lies the Terrace of the Leper King. Here, there are more astounding examples of the relief sculptures carved from the rock. The sheer size and vastness of the Angkor temples is matched, and even surpassed in some places, by the artistry and detail put into the carvings.

I rode on to Tah Prohm where the age old competition between civilization and mother nature is dramatically on display. Massive trees grow from the roofs of buildings 15 and 20 feet off the ground. Their huge roots grip the crumbling stone work like giant fingers threatening at any moment to rip the buildings from their foundations. Many of the roofs and walls have fallen in and left colossal bricks strewn on the ground and in the halls. In some places nature has clearly helped this process. In others, it seems to have prevented it: the roots of a tree wrap around the bricks of a doorway which otherwise would have long ago collapsed. It was truly something to behold.

Though there were a few hours of daylight remaining, I was feeling the fatigue from a day of pedaling and decided to head back. A floating yellow ball in the sky caught my eye. It wasn't the sun but rather the Angkor balloon. For $11 you can ride below the big helium filled balloon to a height of a few hundred feet. The landscape around Angkor is incredibly flat and this is one of the few ways to get an aerial view of the temples. I paid my cash and waited about 15 minutes for the next flight. Below the balloon is suspended a donut shaped basket. Through the empty center, a line connects the balloon to the ground. The line is gradually let out and then reeled back in as the balloon goes up and down. One of the other passengers pointed out that there was only one rubber cord connecting us to the ground and that the pilot really had no control over the helium filled balloon. "What happens if that cord snaps?" she asked. "I guess I won't need to take a bus to Thailand then," I answered. My sense of humor was a thin veil for the growing anxiety I felt at the time. It was only a 10 minute ride though and I managed to control my nerves, enjoy the view, and take a few good photographs.

That night I joined the American guys who had decided to pay a visit to the local discoteque. They were four fairly strapping lads and, although there wasn't really much to worry about, I didn't mind having safety in numbers. The club was built around a big, circular dancefloor. For about half an hour, the lights went up, traditional Khmer music blasted, and people moved around in some strange sort of Asian line dance. Then there was a break, the lights went down, and the DJ started spinning the type of dance tunes I'm more accustomed to hearing. Two of the American guys had local girls on their laps while the rest of us had turned down the flirtatious advances of others. I assumed they were all hookers expecting to come back to the hotel. The two guys 'with company' just assumed they were local girls who had been magnetically drawn to their charm and good looks. We were all wrong. When the bill came it read something like this:

Item: Stella Artois Quantity: 3 Total: $6
Item: San Miguel Lager Quantity: 2 Total: $4
Item: Girls Quantity: 2 Total: $8

Luckily, I was only in for a few beers but I wasn't too shocked to see what else we were being charged for. The Americans were not quite so open minded. A long and heated argument ensued between the staff, the girls, and the guys. I hung out on the steps. Much better to be a spectator in this sort of thing than a participant. It seemed it was futile to dispute the charge and they ended up paying. As we walked back one of the guys remarked, "I should have bitten that bitch!". "Yeah, but that probably would have cost you double," I interjected. They had a good laugh and the tension abated.

For the final day of my pass I wanted to visit a few more temples that were further afield. The bicycle was a viable option but I decided to help out the moto driver who also worked at my guesthouse and let him take me for the day. It wasn't much work for him. He would drive me from one temple to the next, and while waiting for me, he either slept, had a drink, or just chatted. It was a mutually beneficial relationship.

I visited Preah Kahn, Preah Neak Pean, Ta Som, Eastern Mebon, Pre Rup, and Sras Sang. They are dotted along the 'Big Circuit' which is about 26km long. There are some even further but I didn't really have the time or the temple fetish that would be required to see them all. Despite many similarities, each temples has its own unique charm and features. It was an incredible visit and I managed to see all that I wanted to in three days. I had been dreading a swarm of tourists, but had found only some crowds at the main monuments and, in some places, no other people at all. From here it's on to Bangkok by bus. My last border crossing in South East Asia for this trip. Hopefully I can get through without having to 'grease any palms' but you never know around here.

"I watched the coast. Watching a coast as it slips by the ship is like thinking about an enigma. There it is before you, smiling, frowning, inviting, grand, mean, insipid, or savage, and always mute with an air of whispering, 'come find out'." -Marlowe, Heart of Darkness

"Never get out of the boat. Absolutely goddamn right. Unless you were goin' all the way." -Willard, Apocalypse Now

Lately, it's been a case of life imitating art. I spent my last night in Saigon drinking beers and shooting pool at a bar called Apocalypse Now. I spent my last night in Pnohm Penh doing very much the same at a bar called Heart of Darkness. I just couldn't resist the novelty (something I'm sure the savvy owners of these establishments are cashing in on). I really should have resisted though, as on both of the following mornings I had to wake up and travel at 6:00am. I'll try fill in the intervening four days without dragging it on too long.

Saturday: Too lazy to figure out the Mekong Delta on my own, I booked a two day/one night tour. There was a lot of driving involved and not too much sightseeing. The Mekong fans out into several smaller rivers and streams before draining into the Pacific. We were ferried through the delta by bus, boat, and motorbike and got to see some of the local industries that thrive on the banks of the river. We visited a coconut candy factory, a honey farm, and a tropical fruit orchard. Samples were plentiful and the pressure to 'try then buy' was not too strong. I was tempted by the banana wine but the prospect of adding its weight to my already swollen baggage changed my mind.

We were back on the bus in the early afternoon and spent about 6 hours driving to Chau Doc near the Cambodian border. Lush, tropical vegetation thrives along the banks of the Mekong, and so do people. As we drove on through the dusk, there seemed to be an endless procession of people, dogs, bicycles, shops, and little homes. It always seemed as if we had arrived somewhere but we just kept on driving. There was a brief drama as we ran to jump aboard a ferry. Most made it in time, but for an unlucky few, the gap between the boat and the dock was too much to risk jumping. As it turned out, the crossing was only about 5 minutes so we didn't have to wait long for them to catch up. We arrived in Chau Doc after dark, got our hotel room, ate some of the local grub, and fell asleep.

Sunday: As double rooms were the only ones provided in our tour package, I ended up sharing a room with a Welsh guy named Rhodri. We couldn't extract from the English impaired hotel staff when we were supposed to catch a boat in the morning. Not trusting them to wake us up we set an alarm for 6:00am, "Just in case right. Couldn't be any earlier than that surely." The alarm proved unnecessary as we were awakened by a loud knocking at about 5:30am. I went out into the hall to see how long we had to shower and shave. The old, toothless Vietnamese guy simply smiled, nodded, and continued pounding on doors. It seemed they just sent him up from below. Everything worked out and by 8:00am we were on the boat and bound for Cambodia.

The border crossing involved two stops. First to clear Vietnamese customs, and then to officially enter Cambodia. I had my visa stamped and bags cleared in no time. Others were not so fortunate. I spied more than a few people engaged in heated arguments with the border guards or customs officials. I walked across onto Cambodia soil and got a drink while waiting for the rest of the passengers on the boat to come through. After a few minutes of getting acclimatized to Cambodia I was reminded of a local mantra that I've heard more times than I could possibly remember, "Same same but different". Cambodia shares many things with Vietnam: crowds, climate, vegetation, a violent history, and French influence to name a few. But the first noticeable difference about Cambodia was, for me, that I felt much more relaxed. The vendor kids from Vietnam had followed us all the way to the border and from there were still shouting, trying to sell things to people standing in a different country. At the same time, the Khmer kids in Cambodia simply offered to sell us drinks or snacks and, if we weren't interested, gave us a polite smile and left us alone. Incredible. Aswell, the people here look very different from their neighbors in Vietnam. Where as the Vietnamese have a more Asian appearance, the Khmers are much darker and look more like they come from India. It was interesting to note such differences in ethnicity between such close countries. After an hour bus ride into Pnohm Penh, and a few minutes finding the cheapest guesthouse, I was ready for bed.

Monday: The Okay Guesthouse, where I stayed, seemed to have an arrangement going with local moto drivers: they help out around the restaurant and guesthouse in exchange for first crack at taking the travelers out for tours of the sites. I think it's a good system for all involved. The guesthouse gets some cheap labor, the drivers have easy access to a constant pool of potential clients, and the travelers don't have to worry too much about getting screwed around or over charged by the guys that just pick you up on the street. There was, of course, a little friendly competition. Just to be fair, I agreed to go with the first guy that came and talked to me. Here's what I saw:

The Killing Fields of Cheung Ek: a few kilometers out of the city, this is where the Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge executed and buried thousands of Cambodians in an attempt to erase any elements of society that would question its brutal rule. The mass graves have been exhumed and are now large pits in the ground. Most of the remains have been enshrined in a large monument but in some places bones can still be seen in or on the ground. The chirping birds, fluttering butterflies, bright green grass, and warm sunshine all seem at odds with the brutal acts which took place here. I was glad to leave but our next destination was not much more uplifting.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum: Most of the victims who died at the Killing Fields spent their last days here, on the grounds of a former High School transformed into a prison called S-21. Their faces stare out from the black and white photographs on the wall. In some rooms, there are photographs on the wall of lifeless victims on old bedframes. It's quite chilling to look down and realize that you are standing in the same room as the photograph and that the bedframe is sitting right infront of you.

Wat Pnohm: I was glad to visit somewhere a little less emotionally draining when my driver took me to Wat Pnohm. Phohm Penh is very flat, and this little hill from which it gets its name, is the highest point. I walked up to the Buddhist Wat sitting on top and observed some of the park's inhabitants (including playful monkeys and colorfully clothed monks).

Russian Market: The last stop. There was plenty to buy from pirated DVD's and software to the silk scarves called kramars which the locals wear around their heads as protection from dust and sun. I cruised around for about 40 minutes but my only purchase was a bowl of noodles from the little stalls outside.

Tuesday: My last day in Pnohm Penh. I decided to see a few more sights on foot. The traffic is much less insane than Vietnam and there are far fewer people harassing you as you walk down the streets. I used one of the city's main arteries, Norodom Boulevard, to navigate over to the lake front. I knew I was getting close but couldn't seem to find it. As I walked through dusty little streets lined by playing children, chattering women, and little wooden houses, I realized I was, in fact, right next to the lake. It was completely lined by stilt houses. I figured the only way to actually see the lake was to go through to the front of one of these buildings. Luckily, I soon found one which was an Indian restaurant, and sat out front eating Chicken Tikka Masala and enjoying the sun reflecting off the lake.

I meandered my way back to the river front via the impressive Independence Monument. This towering brick structure sits in the middle of a big traffic circle and was erected to celebrate Cambodia gaining independence from France 50 years ago. The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda were closed for lunch from 11:00am-2:00pm, so I made it there around 3:00pm. Cambodia has a constitutional monarchy and their king, Norodom Sihanouk, still resides in the vast and beautiful Royal Palace. Of course his section of the Palace is off limits to the public, but the flag flying atop the pole indicated that he was at home.

Adjoined to the Palace is the Silver Pagoda, named for its floor of solid silver tiles. Though some relics were looted and sold during the reign of the Khmer Rouge, many still remain to dazzle visitors. The most impressive is a solid gold, nearly life-size Buddha with a 20 karat diamond in its chest and a 25 karat diamond in its forehead. Between the silver floor, the gold and platinum statues, and the many jewels, the value of the treasures in the Silver Pagoda is mind boggling.

As I mentioned, I spent my last night in Phohm Penh's notorious Heart of Darkness with Rhodri and another Brit named Mark. When we arrived at 9:00pm the place was empty but for the tables, chairs, and a few staff. We got some beers and staked our claim on the pool table. Our attention was mainly focused on the table and our beers for the next few hours. We were all surprised when we turned around and found ourselves in a brothel. Well, not quite, but the crowd of people that had filled the place up consisted mainly of middle aged western men and young Cambodian prostitutes. All mixed together in various raunchy partnerships. It wasn't a tough decision to stay where we were at the pool table, but people had started signing up on the whiteboard and so the loser would have to give up their spot and sign up for a turn. A couple of Khmer girls were eager participants. The thing with girls who play pool is that they seem to either be terrible or incredible. There is rarely an even match. In this case they were incredible and barely took more than a second to line up their shots. We all put up a good fight but ended up losing and waiting for our names to come around on the board again. I headed home before the other two because of my 7:00am bus. I'm hoping there is enough juice left in my alarm clock battery to wake me up or I won't be able to escape from 'The Penh' for another day.

A smaller boat was required to tour some of the Mekong Delta's narrower reaches: